> Next: Building a Wooden Rose Arbor
Building a Mailbox Planter
This one-weekend project combines building skills, love of flowering plants, and creating a unique look for your home.
In addition to the building materials, visit a salvage yard or thrift store to find an interesting rectangular planter to suspend below the mailbox. This planter was a find at a yard sale, made of brass with an antique verdigris patina.
To build your mailbox planter, assemble the materials below and carefully follow the steps shown.
Materials and Fasteners
Required Materials:
1 – 4 x 4 x 96-in. (89 x 89 x 2,438-mm) post
2 – 2 x 4 x 47-in. (38 x 89 x 1,194-mm) side rails
2 – 2 x 4 x 10-3/4-in. (38 x 89 x 273-mm) spacers
1 – 2 x 6 x 17-1/2-in. (38 x 140 x 445-mm) box shelf
2 – 2 x 8 x 16-1/2-in. (38 x 184 x 419-mm) brace
2 – 1 x 2 x 27-in. (19 x 38 x 686-mm) long frames
2 – 1 x 2 x 6-1/4-in. (19 x 38 x 159-mm) short frames
12 – 1-in. (25 mm) wooden buttons
8 – Lathe-turned cabinet pulls
Fasteners and Hardware:
1 – Decorative brass cap
6 – 1/4 x 5-1/2-in. (6 x 140-mm) bolts, nuts, and washers
6 – #8 x 2-in. (4 x 50-mm) brass wood screws
16 – #6 x 1-1/2-in. (3.5 x 40-mm) brass wood screws
Step-By-Step Instructions
Plant it with flowers, and this mailbox planter will draw admiring comments for homes in a suburban or rural setting.
Gather the materials listed, and follow these steps:
How to Build a Mailbox Planter and Post
Cut and chisel to make a mortise channel 3-1/2-in. (89-mm) wide, at 14 in. (35 cm) from the end of each of the two side rails. The channel will fix the post and allow for wood-thickness differences.
Use a jigsaw to cut an arc 5-1/2-in. (140-mm) in diameter on each end of the brace block. Cut arc corners 3 in. (75 mm) in diameter in one end of each side rail.
Cut a kerf, 2-11/16-in. long (68-mm) long by 1/2-in. (12-mm) deep, into the edge of the side rails at the arc corner.
On a layout table, assemble, square, and clamp the post, 2 side rails, spacers, and brace block.
Use a 1-in (25-mm) paddle bit to drill 6 holes, 1/2-in. (13-mm) deep, centered at the site of each bolt.
Invert the assembly and repeat on the other side.
Use a 5/16-in. (8-mm) spade bit to through-drill the 6 bolt holes.
Fasten the assembly with bolts, washers, and nuts.
Set each nut finger-tight plus 1-1/2 turns to avoid over-compressing the wood.
Use exterior wood glue and a wooden button to plug each bolt hole.
Tap each button into place using a soft mallet wrapped with a soft cloth.
Wipe away any excess glue until clean.
Drill receiving holes for the wooden cabinet pulls that support the planter.
Use exterior wood glue to fasten the cabinet pulls into the side rails.
Glue the decorative cap onto the post.
Position the box flush with the kerf end.
Attach the box shelf to the side rails with 6 #8 wood screws.
Place the mailbox on the box shelf.
Adjust the box’s position to allow the door to freely open.
Fasten the mailbox to the box shelf with 8 #6 wood screws.
Fasten the planter’s hanging frame with 2 #6 wood screws at each corner.
Drill and attach 4 cabinet pulls, set in exterior wood glue.
Dig a posthole. The top of the mailbox’s side rails should be 32 in. (81 cm) above finished grade.
Set the post into the hole, brace, and pour one sack of fence post concrete into the hole.
Water the concrete mix thoroughly, and allow it to cure for 48 hours before proceeding.
Fill the planter box with potting soil.
Plant flowering plants.
Set the planter box into its support frame.
Hang it from the mailbox support’s side rails with nylon rope or chain.