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Tools and Other Garden Equipment
Learn about many garden tools, implements, and accessories available to make your vegetable garden tasks easier, safer and more efficient.
Disclaimer Notice
GrownByYou’s experts have assembled the following list of commonly-used garden tools, implements, and clothing to aid you in finding the equipment you need for your specific garden-care and maintenance needs.
These items all are tools of the gardening and landscaping trade. When used for their intended purposes, they are both helpful and useful aids for performing important work in gardening and landscaping.
These tools and other equipment should always be used in the manner directed by the manufacturer, following the manufacturer’s instructions provided with their products.
GrownByYou assumes no liability for use or consequence of use by any consumer of the information provided.
Conflict-of-Interest Notice
Our no-conflicts-of-interest policy prevents us from either recommending specific brands or products or having any financial interest in their sale or use. We neither source nor sell any of the items described, all of which are commonly available from retail stores or other channels.
Our mission is solely to provide useful information to the worldwide audience of home gardeners.
Click on each tool’s tab to open a description.
- Aerator, Compost:
- Apron/Vest, Garden:
- Ax:
- Belts, Tool:
- Bench, Kneeling:
- Billhook or Brush Hook:
- Bin, Compost:
- Bin, Potato:
- Blowers:
- Boots, Garden:
- Cage, Tomato:
- Cart, Garden:
- Cell Packs:
- Claw:
- Cloche:
- Clogs:
- Clothing, Protective:
- Cold Frame:
- Containers, Plant:
- Crowbar:
- Cultivator:
- Cultivator, 3-Prong:
- Cultivator-Hoe:
- Dibber:
- Dibber, Pencil:
- Dibber, Planting:
- Dibber:
- Dusters:
- Ear Protection:
- Eye Protection:
- Edgers:
- Edgers, Lawn:
- Forks, Garden:
- Gloves, Gardening:
- Goggles:
- Grass Trimmers:
- Handles, Types:
- Hat, Fabric:
- Hat, Brimmed:
- Hilt, Tool:
- Hoes:
- Holster:
- Hoses
- Hose Accessories:
- Knives, Garden:
- Labels, Plant:
- Loppers
- Machetes:
- Mattock:
- Meter, Moisture:
An aerator inserts into a compost pile to stir and add oxygen to the mix. It is a 3-foot (30-cm) long tool with small paddlelike blades that easily penetrate the compost and loosen compacted materials so air can circulate and oxygenate the compost, aiding aerobic decomposition by soil bacteria and increasing activity by worms and soil insects. Galvanized-steel tube poles are best.
To keep the smaller tools of the trade right by your side, an apron or vest keeps seed packages, trowels, gloves, and many other items secured in big pockets or loops. Aprons generally are made from heavy cotton duckcloth or poly denier fabric, and vests from light cotton material. A vest offers the added advantage of backpocket storage.
A heavy-duty implement to fell trees, split logs, and clear brush. The ax blade should be broad and constructed out of forged and tempered steel. A hickory handle is considered best, but any high-quality, close-grained hardwood will do. The average ax weighs between 4 and 5 pounds (1.8–2.3 kg). A smaller ax, the hatchet, is also useful for chopping kindling and other, lighter tasks.
When a single holster is not enough and an apron is too heavy, a tool belt is a good bet. Most garden tool belts are constructed out of cotton canvas duck, but if you prefer leather there are tons of choices at any home supply depot. A good tool belt should offer space for trowels, stakes, seed packages, gloves and small folding knives, to name just a few items.
A kneeler is a padded bench with rigid tubular handles that helps take the grunt out of getting up and down. Once down, your knees are protected by a foam cushion. Flip the device over and you’ve got yourself a seat. A sturdy steel frame and well-padded bench indicate a quality product.
The billhook, and its longer-handled cousin, the brushhook, are among the most ancient of cutting tools. A few swipes of the broad, hook-ended blade will clear out your garden space in no time. A quality model has a double-edged blade forged out of solid steel and handles that are flat and made of hardwood.
Soil is nourished by compost, which is made up of organic material. With a compost bin you can produce your own by recycling your food scraps (though avoid composting any meats or other fatty foods). Compost bins are made of wood, metal, or plastic and come in various shapes and sizes, but they should be at least 3 x 3 x 3 feet (90 x 90 x 90 cm). There should be at least one removable door or lid to allow for turning and collecting purposes.
If you lack the space for a potato crop of any magnitude, potato bins offer the solution. Fifty pounds (23 kg) of tubers will grow in one of these polyethylene bins. Just layer the bottom with potting soil, insert the seed potato starters, then layer with soil and straw. Open the side of the container at harvest time and the potatoes spill right out. Most bins adjust from 1–3 feet (30–90 cm) in diameter.
To whisk leaves and debris off your vegetable beds without scouring the surface, get a gas- or electric-powered leaf blower. Energy flow is maximized by means of tube extensions to produce cleansing gusts of air. Big, high-output blowers resemble vacuum cleaners and can be wheeled around the garden, but handheld or backpack models are more convenient. Portable blowers commonly have air-speed controls; vacuum or mulching options are also available.
Commonly nicknamed “Wellies,” these rubber boots are easy to slip on and off. The boots come in high- or low-cut styles. They are invaluable when working in saturated soil or standing water. The soles are thick and reinforced, providing foot protection and grip. High Wellies come up to the calf, where they can be drawn tight to keep out water.
This galvanized, 32-inch (82-cm) high steel cage supports fully grown tomato plants and the heaviest of fruit. The cage openings are 8-inches (20-cm) wide, allowing easy access to your crop. The standard model can be stacked one on top of the other for efficient storage; others are hinged to fold flat for even tighter storage space.
A two-wheeled garden cart is less tippy than a wheelbarrow and has more interior space, but is more maneuverable than a garden wagon. The bottom is flat, which makes it useful for hauling potted plants or planked wood. Garden-cart wheels resemble fat-tire bike wheels. A galvanized steel frame wrapped around thick plywood indicates a well-constructed cart.
These plastic trays filled with seedling “cells” are rooted in soil and divided into little sod units. Cell packs usually come in counts of 6, 36, 48, and 72. Pop out the cells when the plants have grown and transplant them into the garden or a container.
For cultivating the garden in a standing position, this 3- or 4-pronged cultivator is a comfortable choice and also works more ground than a small hand instrument can. It’s especially good for loosening topsoil and stirring in compost or fertilizer. The tines and head should be forged from a single sheet of steel. Flexible tines are also desirable as they will give a bit when they hit a rock or other debris.
Classically shaped like a bell jar, it functions in a manner similar to a cold frame [see Building a Cold Frame]. It is designed to protect the plants you may have set out in your garden in advance of ideal weather. Unlike a cold frame, which is constructed in the garden and then receives the plants, you bring the cloche to the plantings and place it over them like a hat. It also protects from wind, bugs, and birds. Cloches come in glass or plastic and in varying shapes and sizes.
A pair of garden clogs will spare your vegetable garden the heavy tread of a rubber boot. This footwear has an enclosed heel and is made of rubberlike plastic; cork insoles cushion the feet. Dirt and mud rinses easily off these shoes, which come in an array of bright colors.
A fashion godsend under bad blackfly or mosquito conditions, these jackets, pants, head nets, and gloves constructed out of tightly woven polyester mesh spare the gardener a good deal of misery. These low-cost clothes are dark colored to further discourage pests, and knit cuffs and zippers make the garments easy to put on and take off.
A cold frame allows plants access to sunlight in the cool of winter while protecting them from the elements. Its purpose is to promote early growth. Cold frames can be opened to help acclimate crops or flowers to the outside air. Most are of wood-frame construction with acrylic or plastic windows. They should be hinged to allow different degrees of air exposure [see Building a Cold Frame].
For creating a movable vegetable garden, either for decorative reasons or to protect plants during periods of inclement weather, plant containers are essential. They can be elaborate or simple, huge or tiny, hang from the rafters or tuck into a nook. Common container materials are terra cotta, cast stone concrete, glazed earthenware, woven twig or vine, cedar, redwood, and many, many forms of plastic. All containers should be washed thoroughly and sterilized before receiving any plantings [see Choosing and Preparing Containers].
When a mattock or pick won’t do for major rock or root removal, consider the crowbar. This lean, long tool—the standard size is about 60 inches (1.5 m)—is perfect for manipulating a rock into another position or for pulling it out of the ground altogether. Consider only a high-quality steel model.
Used to loosen soil for the optimal circulation of air and water through the soil cultivators, are also useful as weeders. The tools are pronged or tined and designed to stir up the first 1/2 in. (12 mm) of topsoil. Most cultivators are about the length of a hoe, but there also are small handheld and wheeled models available. Hardwood grips and steel construction are the norm for quality tools.
For cultivating the garden in a standing position, this cultivator is a comfortable choice and also works more ground than a small hand instrument can. It’s especially good for loosening topsoil and stirring in compost or fertilizer. The tines and head should be forged from a single sheet of steel. Flexible tines are also desirable as they will give a bit when they hit a rock or other debris.
The small cultivator-hoe has a 3-pronged cultivating fork on one side of the head and a sharp narrow hoe blade on the other. It’s strong enough to cultivate heavy claylike soil and is useful for chopping up roots and digging holes for bulbs and seedlings. It can even take on small trenching jobs. Steel or wood handles are standard, but the head should be of high-quality steel rather than pressed metal.
A very simple garden tool dating far into the past to prehistoric subsistence tools found by archeologists, a dibber pokes holes in the ground so you can plant seeds or bulbs. The gardener’s skill comes in determining how deep or wide to make the hole. There are fat and skinny dibbers in a number of styles. The best constructed generally have hardwood handles and carbon steel tips, but lighter weight materials will do fine for many jobs.
A very small but useful propagation tool, handy at the potting bench for poking seed holes into pots or flats of seedling trays, these small “pencils” are about 5–9-inches (12–25-cm) long with tiny tips.
This improved dibber is constructed of polished aluminum and calibrated with grooves to help you determine the depth of the holes you want to make. A vinyl-covered T-grip tops the handle, providing leverage so the dibber easily penetrates turf, sod, or dense soil.
The straight dibber is shaped like a carbon steel–tipped finger and performs just as one of your digits would if it were that sturdy. The D-grip dibber does the same thing, except it is heavier in weight—2 pounds (0.9 kg)—and sports a more secure grip. It’s a better choice for stubborn soil.
Constructed from plastic and nylon, dusters deliver and apply dry forms of insecticide to the garden. Use them only when the air is still or winds are light, and always wear a protective respirator. Hand-crank dusters are generously sized and have the capacity to cover large areas. Extension tubes about about 15 inches (38 cm) in length help place the product where it is needed.
When the quiet garden approaches rock-concert sound levels in the presence of blowers, rototillers, power mowers, and the like, the gardener is well advised to plug in some ear protection. Soft foam plugs are disposable and custom fit your ear canal. Preshaped foam plugs fit smoothly in the ear and often are attached to a cord for easy removal. Air-cushioned earplugs come with a light headband and relieve pressure on the ear canal. The most protective are earmuffs, with foam cushions surrounding the ear to shut out noise, and an adjustable headband.
Vision protection is essential when working with axes or mallets, constructing a potting table or raised-bed supports, fertilizing or applying insecticides. Safety goggles wrap around the head and should fit snugly. Vent holes prevent the eyewear from steaming or fogging up. A lens made of polycarbonate material provides impact resistance.
An edger allows the gardener to keep nice, clean lines at the vegetable bed or border, walkway or patio. Hand edgers are long-handled, half-moon-shaped blades that are very sharp. Carbon or forged steel heads are best. An edger should be kept well sharpened so the blade, not you, is doing most of the sod-cutting work. Many prefer battery or corded electric or gas-powered edgers featuring lobed, rotating blades that spin behind a protective guard.
Border markers that prevent lawn and turf grasses from creeping into the vegetable patch, lawn edgings come in plastic, terra cotta, concrete, wrought iron, aluminum, and wood. They are staked or pounded into the soil and are available in all sorts of configurations, styles, and lengths.
Garden forks vary in shape, length, and number of tines, but forks all function as an extension of your hand. The fork scoops, lifts, and transports material as well as crumbling and turning soil. The best tools are constructed of forged steel and have long solid sockets that are riveted to the handle. The tines should be strong or they’ll soon bend out of shape with heavy use. A fork should fit the individual, so test out the heft and size of several until you find one comfortable for you. Forks typically weigh from 2–5 pounds (0.9–2.3 kg) and are 3–4 feet (90–120 cm) in length. YD-grips lend additional control.
Bedding Fork: Ten closely spaced tines make this fork a good choice for spreading around mulch and compost and for scooping it up. This fork is just under 6-feet (1.8-m) long, which lends it excellent reach. A forged steel head is best.
Broadfork: A specialty tool, the two-handled broadfork allows the gardener to use his or her body weight to work the fork into the soil for deep aeration, making it especially excellent for a vegetable garden. Ash handles and five forged-steel tines indicate high quality.
Compost Fork: This specialty fork is constructed just for turning compost. The tines are thin and diamond pointed to allow it to penetrate the compost without destroying useful bugs and worms. The fork should have a forged carbon steel head and be securely joined to a high-quality hardwood handle. T-grips add power and control.
English Garden Fork: A heavy, strong digging fork with four slender but chiseled tines, this fork penetrates deeply into tough rocky or clay soils without disturbing roots. It’s long, at about 4 feet (1.2 m), making it better suited to a tall, strong gardener. Forged-steel construction and quality hardwood handles are a must.
Hand Fork: This light, 3-tined, 15-inch (38-cm) long fork-shaped tool also is an efficient weeder in the vegetable garden. High-quality, aluminum blades set in a durable plastic grip are durable and rust-free.
Hay- or Pitch-Fork: The classic pitchfork of the old-fashioned farm is one of the most primitive “found” tools, descended from branches farmers simply picked up and put to use. The 3-tined pitch or hay fork is now constructed out of forged steel and secured by a bolt to a hardwood handle. Its function remains unchanged—to move hay, leaves, compost, and other lightweight matter from point A to point B.
Spading Fork: A lightweight tool with 4 widely spaced tines that come to triangular points, the spading fork is good for tilling sandy and other light, crumbly soil. A light, stamped-metal head is adequate, but a steel head provides best durability.
Protection from thorns, rocks, dirt, sticks, spiky leaves are a must, and human hands frequently encounter these hazards during garden tasks. Gloved protection comes in the form of canvas, rubber, nylon, leather, and combinations of these materials. A glove with a grip on the palm is desirable when working with tools. Many gloves also feature gaiters or gauntlets constructed out of nylon, leather, or canvas to protect the forearm.
Gloves, Canvas or Protective Fabric: Canvas and similar protective gloves are best worn while working with dry materials since cotton or fabric can soak up water like a sponge. For standard gardening jobs such as weeding, digging, and pruning, the canvas glove is an inexpensive choice and provides adequate protection.
Gloves, Leather: Offering more protection against thorns, rocks, and other sharp objects, leather gloves also repel water much better than does canvas. Good-quality leather is flexible and smooth against your hand. Pigskin is the toughest leather, followed by cowhide; goatskin is the most supple and makes for an elegant and very durable glove.
Eye protection is essential when working with axes or mallets, constructing a potting table or raised-bed supports, fertilizing or applying insecticides. Safety goggles wrap around the head and should fit snugly. Vent holes prevent the eyewear from steaming or fogging up. A lens made of polycarbonate material provides impact resistance.
Nylon-cord grass trimmers operate either by battery, electricity, or gas. The nylon filament whirls around at a very high speed, whipping through weeds and grass. It’s most commonly used to trim spaces where lawn meets pavement, but with careful use at low speeds can keep lawn from encroaching on vegetable garden beds.
In addition to the straightforward, rounded end of a shaft, there are several other hilt configurations—D, YD, and T. The D-grip is a strong snub grip that offers a firm hand rest for twisting motions; the best are made out of metal. The wooden or metal YD-grip resembles a D-grip but is more elongated; the sides of the grip are bridged with a metal reinforced crosspiece. The T-grip is a good hilt for pushing or tossing work and lends additional push power to smaller hand tools.
Soft cotton hats can be crushed in your pocket or garden apron, dipped in water to cool your head, and used as a sweat rag if need be. Primarily, a hat keeps your head protected from the sun—and protects you when a 15-minute trip out to the garden turns into 2 hours. When it gets dirty or sweaty, just pop it into the washing machine. Look for a canvas hat with eyelets to provide air circulation.
The advantage of a broad-brimmed hat is sun protection from hazards due to ultraviolet sunlight that causes sunburn, damaged skin and increased skin-cancer risk over a lifetime of outdoor exposure. The true Panama hat is made in Ecuador and offers the widest-brimmed protection from a hot sun. Many broad-brimmed lookalike styles are lightweight and woven in a way that allows air to circulate, keeping your head fairly cool. A model with a chin strap is useful to keep it from falling off your head when bending over.
The rounded end of the shaft of tools with long handles, in configurations of D, YD, and T. [See also, Handles, Types, above.]
A classic for the tilling and cultivation of vegetable and flower gardens, a hoe is used for weeding, and cutting or breaking ground. Blades come in different widths, made from stamped metal or steel, but the finest are forged out of one piece of steel. The best hardwood handles are made from ash or hickory. Because the cutting edge of the hoe is constantly smacking into dirt and rock, it’s important to keep it oiled, clean, and sharp.
Circle Hoe: The circle hoe has a fixed, hooplike carbon-steel blade that is sharp on the inner side and blunt on the outer. Instead of chopping the hoe into the soil, you pull it towards you to weed and aerate an area. Because the blunt end of the blade is on the outside, you can place it right up against a plant without cutting it.
Combination or Cultivating Hoe: The small cultivator hoe has a 3-pronged cultivating fork on one side of the head and a sharp narrow hoe blade on the other. It’s strong enough to cultivate heavy claylike soil and is useful for chopping up roots and digging holes for bulbs and seedlings. It can even take on small trenching jobs. Steel or wood handles are standard, and the head should be of high-quality steel.
Draw Hoe: This classic hoe model is fundamental for weed control, cultivation, and cutting and drawing trenches. The flat, forged steel blade is sharp and should be supported by a swan neck that allows leverage for cutting deep into the soil. A solid ash handle indicates a high-quality tool.
Grape- or Italian-Hoe: This tool came to the vineyards of the United States by way of Italy, which is why it also is known as the Italian Eye Hoe. The blade is scoop shaped and constructed of forged steel. It is somewhat short handled and heavy, which makes it a formidable chopping implement for tough vines.
Hand Hoe: A light, short weeder, the hand hoe slices through roots, which makes it ideal for removing weeds from vegetable rows and flower beds. The hand hoe is 15-inches (38-cm) long and requires the gardener to kneel or sit when working. A good-quality hand hoe with a sharp steel blade is just as efficient as its larger cousins and can work in more delicate spaces.
Narrow Field Hoe: This lightweight, narrow-bladed hoe with a goose or swanlike neck has a 4-inch (10-cm) wide blade that makes it a good choice for small areas, sandy soils, beds, and borders. Hardwood handles, steel blades and necks indicate a quality field hoe.
Onion Hoe: Think of the draw hoe, then think of it in miniature. The swan neck and flat steel blade are the same in configuration, only smaller, for accessing hard-to-reach garden spaces or the diminutive needs of a container. A rust-resistant finish, hardwood handle, and leather hanging thong indicate a durable tool.
Oscillating or Action Hoe: A 1/2-inch (12-mm) double stirrup-shaped blade distinguishes this tool from all others. The difference between this and a regular hoe is in the double-cutting push-pull motion that allows the gardener to destroy weeds at or below the soil surface without wasting energy with a chopping stroke. A good model should have a galvanized steel frame holding a tempered steel blade. Keep this tool well oiled.
Stalham Hoe: This heavy-duty dirt-pushing hoe has a broad 6-inch (15-cm) blade, thick handle, and goose neck. Comfortable and solid, the best versions are made of enameled steel, which helps the hoe slice through soil without sticking.
A heavy-duty grain leather holster keeps pruners, saws, loppers, and shears safely enclosed by your side. The leather should be firmly riveted and sewn with waxed thread. Some models clip on; others fit just like a belt. Most holsters hold a single tool but there are double holsters that are just shy of a full-fledged tool belt.
Hoses—the “long, thin buckets” of country lore—come in a range of lengths; the standard diameter is 5/8 inch (16 mm) but 1/2 inch (12 mm), 3/4 inch (19 mm) and other diameter hoses are commonly available. As a rule of thumb, the larger the hose’s diameter, the greater volume of water that will pass through it at a given delivery pressure. A good hose has brass couplings.
Coil Hoses: Made of shape-retaining plastic cores with vinyl coverings, coil hoses are space savers in the garden. They stretch to nearly their full linear length, then retract when you release tension and their coils tighten. They are usually small-diameter hoses used for smaller watering applications.
Rubber Hoses: Hoses made of twisted strands of natural or synthetic rubber resist kinking but are heavier than vinyl hoses. They are very durable and resistant to damage from sunlight.
Soaker Hoses: A soaker hose “leaks” water to a given area by means of a multitude of tiny, precision spaced holes. It waters slowly and evenly and is especially useful for conserving water during drought conditions or preventing runoff from too-fast application of water with a traditional hose. High-quality soaker hoses are made of durable rubber, supplanting the canvas hoses that were prone to rot.
Vinyl Hoses: The 5-ply, PVC-tubed, vinyl-covered hose is a garden standard because it won’t burst or crack in extreme cold or heat. At the same time, it is inexpensive enough to replace when the dog chews it or car tires mangle it.
There are many hose accessories available to improve the quality and ease of watering vegetables: Hose guides stake the hose above and away from walkways and toward vegetable beds. Pistol grip nozzles allow the gardener greater control over water pressure and direction. Rain wands and the smaller patio wand are rigid extensions that disperse water in a gentle, showering manner, making them perfect for container plantings and watering tender seedlings.
Hose Guides: These guides stake your hose above or around plants so the plants are not mangled by dragging the hose through the bed. There are three major types: Stakes, or steel rods coated with a smooth polyester that support the hose aboveground; plastic rotating guides that allow the hose to glide smoothly around them; and pop-up guides, which can be recessed into the ground when the hose is not in use.
Patio Watering Wands: A smaller version of the rain wand, the patio watering wand is perfect for watering container plants and hanging baskets. It’s constructed out of aluminum and disperses water in a gentle shower.
Pistol Grips: This grip allows the gardener greater control over water pressure and the direction of the spray. Fancy nozzles allow you to jet- or flat-spray surfaces for cleanup or to lightly shower vegetable plants without disturbing the soil.
Rain Wands: Lightweight aluminum makes this an easy-to-use tool for watering the back of the bed and other out of the way places. The rigid 40-inch (10-cm) extension attaches to a hose and gently waters seedlings and other delicate plants without drenching them.
Nozzles: Rotary nozzles control the volume and pattern of flow from a hose by turning their barrel valves until the water flows in the a desired flow rate and dispersion pattern.
Garden knives are specialized tools used for grafting, pruning, weeding, and cutting. These small instruments are designed for specific purposes and should not be interchanged. While all-purpose knives, or a pocket knife, can substitute for some tasks, the ease with which specialty knives perform their work makes them an ideal choice.
Budding Knife: Very similar to the grafting knife, this tool features a small bump on the dull side of the blade to lift bark or hold a stock cut open so a bud can be inserted. Budding knives are useful for grafting rose, fruit, and small ornamental stock. These knives should be constructed from forged or stainless steel and feature a quality hardwood or horn handle.
Grafting Knife: This small all-purpose knife is used for grafting, pruning, and cutting. The straight blade makes it a handy tool for the potting bench; many folding models are available to prevent accidents if children or pets are nearby. A quality knife has a forged steel blade and durable hardwood handle.
Grub Knife: A flat, broad knife with one serrated and one smooth edge, this tool is used primarily to dig up bulbs and tubers. It also makes a good catch-all tool for some sawing or digging jobs. The blade typically is 6 inches (15 cm) in length.
Pruning Knife: The blade of the pruning knife has a hooked, slightly curved end. Because of the curve it’s not as handy for potting bench grafting or cutting jobs, but is a good tool for taking light cuttings from the garden. Hand-forged stainless steel will keep the sharpest edge and prevent “tearing” stems. Hardwood handles are best. Many folding models are available.
Unless you can remember planting every little green sprig that pokes its way to the surface of your garden, plant labels will help keep your crop tracked. Markers can be fancy, with verdigris finishes, or popsicle-stick plain. Popular materials include copper, zinc, wood, ceramic, and plastic. Seed packages can be placed over the labels, or they can be marked with a grease pencil. Many markers come pre-engraved with vegetable or flower names.
One step up in power and size from the hand pruner and shears, loppers are designed to cut branches up to 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Loppers have a hooked nose to prevent branches from slipping out. Ratchet-action loppers make quick work of cutting by transferring the workload onto the tool from your wrist, which makes them a favorite of forestry workers. A good lopper is made of carbon steel with hardwood, aluminum, or steel handles. Cushioned grips are best.
For chopping through brush and other clearing chores a machete 1-1/2 to 2-foot (30–45-cm) long is a handy item. Machetes are small enough to work with one hand but strong enough to hack through thorns and bramble. Rust-resistant carbon steel blades are first choice. Hardwood handles should fit your grip.
This digging and cutting tool with a pointed pick on one side and cutting blade on the other is useful for attacking tough shrubs and roots and for loosening rocks. Handle length is about 3 feet (90 cm), but smaller hand mattocks of 1 foot (30 cm) in length are available. Both versions should have solid forged carbon steel heads and high-quality hardwood handles. The head and handle should be securely fastened by an eye socket and bolt.
This simple tool has a graduated dial that indicates the humidity of your soil across a range of dry to wet. Insert the thin 3/4-inch (20-mm) probe deep into the soil and note the reading. However, readings mean nothing unless you know how much moisture a particular plant needs. Choose a meter that comes with a guide or booklet that addresses the particular needs of your plantings. Some models also come with light meters, which are particularly useful for indoor plants.
- Misters
- Netting:
- Pants, Gardeners:
- Pads, Kneeling:
- Pad, Knee:
- Pick:
- Pick-and-Hoe:
- Planters, Bulb:
- Planters, Bulb, Tall:
- Planters, Bulb, Other:
- Pots:
- Presser Board:
- Pruners
- Pruning Saw
- Rakes, Garden:
- Respirator
- Riddles and Sieves:
- Rose, Watering:
- Rototiller or Tiller:
- Sandals, Aerator:
- Scarecrow:
- Scoop, Soil:
- Scythe:
- SeedFlats or Trays:
- Seeder, Mechanical:
- Sharpeners:
- Shears:
- Shovels:
- Shredder/Chipper:
- Sickle:
- Six-Pack:
- Soil-Test Kits:
- Spades:
- Sprayers:
- Spreaders
- Sprinklers:
- Stakes:
- Sundials:
- Supports:
- Table/Bench, Potting:
- Tarps:
- Thermometer, Soil:
- Ties:
- Tiller, Hand:
- Timers:
- Tool Rack:
- Tote, Gardeners':
- Traps, Animal:
- Traps, Insects:
- Trays, Potting:
- Trowels:
These small, convenient watering devices that lightly humidify plants or seedling usually are made of plastic or glass. Larger models are available to cover more garden areas. Some hose accessories also have mister settings.
A variety of sizes, weights, and shapes makes this accessory handy and adaptable to many garden situations. There are nets that can be used like trellises to help support pea, cucumber, and tomato plant growth. Other nets are designed to be draped over trees and vegetable patches to keep out pests and birds. Still others can be fashioned into hammocks to support heavy fruits such as melons and squashes. Most netting is made from nylon or polypropylene material and can be cut to fit the job.
Sturdy cotton canvas pants offer lots of moving room, allowing you to bend or crawl in comfort. Reinforced knees or pockets for knee pads provide a welcome cushion for down-and-dirty jobs. Premium gardener’s pants also feature loops and big side pockets to hold equipment. Some have reinforced fabric at points of heavy wear, such as the knees.
Soft, plastic-coated foam pads, usually with a carrying handle, protects knees from the hard ground surface when working in the garden. They are an inexpensive and convenient item that will greatly increase your enjoyment of gardening as a hobby by preventing injury and discomfort.
Portable, lightweight knee pads can be strapped on and used for protection in small spaces where a kneeling bench won’t fit. They should be made of closed-cell EVA foam, which is soft and water resistant. Some have hard shells of polyurethane that are ridged for a secure grip.
A pick is pointed on one side and has a slightly narrow blade on the other. It is used like a chisel to break up tough clay or rocky soils and also makes a good prying tool. Don’t use a pick to grub out roots as the pointed end can stick and wrench your back. A pick is swung like an ax and requires some strength and control. It typically weighs from 8–9 pounds (3.6–4 kg). A well-made model has a solid carbon steel head.
A miniature version of the mighty 8-pound (3.6-kg) standard pick, the pick-and-hoe weighs just 2 pounds (0.9 kg). The blade side of this tool can be used as a hoe to weed a small garden; the pick end breaks up soil and works well around trees and other areas a full-sized pick might mangle. Solid carbon steel heads and high-quality hardwood handles are the norm for the best models.
Depending on how many bulbs you are placing in the garden you can choose from two styles: short or long handled. If you don’t mind kneeling for a bit to plant a small number of bulbs, a short-handled planter will suffice. For setting in hundreds of them a long-handled planter is a must to save your back. Both work the same way: Stamp the can-shaped device into the ground and pull up the dirt, leaving a hole fit for a bulb. Stamped-metal planters are inexpensive but will not hold up in the long term; the best models are made of stainless or carbon steel.
This is the tool for bulb planting in sod or grass. Grasp the T-shaped handle, push on the foot flanges to work the planter in, then twist the handle to bring up the dirt. The handles should have a rubber grip, and the tool should be forged of solid carbon steel.
A planter with a handle that squeezes the dirt together and then releases it easily, this tool saves strain on your wrist. It’s also lightweight, at just under 1 pound (0.5 kg). The planter should be of high-quality steel.
For creating a movable vegetable garden, either for decorative reasons or to protect plants during periods of inclement weather, plant containers are essential. They can be elaborate or simple, huge or tiny, hang from the rafters or tuck into a nook. Common container materials are terra cotta, cast stone concrete, glazed earthenware, woven twig or vine, cedar, redwood, and many, many forms of plastic. All containers should be washed thoroughly and sterilized before receiving any plantings [see Choosing and Preparing Containers].
Peat Pots: Though peat pots are a little pricier than the average seedling-carrying plastic pot, their beauty is that they can be popped right into the soil, where the roots of the plant will grow right through the sidewalls of the container and extend into the surrounding soil. Because the “pots” are made of organic material, they contribute nutrients to the soil as they decay. Easy as this sounds, peat pots must be kept moist until the roots are well established into the native soil, or the plants will fail to establish properly.
[See also: Containers, Plant in this list.]
This stiff, flat, foot-long (30-cm) piece of hardwood with an attached handle presses the topsoil uniformly over new seed plantings. It not only keeps your hands clean but provides a more even tamping.
Hand pruners are invaluable for light cutting jobs. They are the tool to use when it comes to pruning thin stems off a tree or shrub, deadheading flowers, and harvesting melons, squashes, and several other vegetable types. There are many versions of the hand pruner, including small and light for the petite gardener, as well as models for left handers. The finest pruners come with solid forged aluminum alloy handles padded with rubber. The slightly curved blade is carbon steel and attached by hardened nut-and-bolt construction. Teflon-coated blades are also available.
Anvil Pruners: Anvil hand pruners cut with a chopping motion of their blade on a grooved steel plate as opposed to the scissors-like action of the standard pruner. They are used to cut through thick, woody stems and branches. The gardener’s hand is protected because the blade will not slip off a branch once it’s got its “teeth” into it. Hardened steel blades, some Teflon coated, and a firm grip are desirable. Keep the blade sharp; when dull, it crushes rather than cuts.
Bypass Pruners: The best choice for removing woody stems less than 1 inch (25 mm) in diameter, the blades of this pruner are kept slightly apart so that they cut with a slicing motion as opposed to a crushing one. The best bypass pruners have hardened, high-carbon steel blades with aluminum handles insulated in rubber.
Parrot-Billed Pruners: Long handles and a small blade gives this bypass pruner its apt moniker. This configuration lends maximum leverage, making it more powerful than any hand pruner for tough and stubby branches. Insulated grips and high-carbon steel blades are indications of good quality.
Pole Pruners: For reaching up and into a tree to either harvest fruit or lightly shape a planting, the pole pruner is a must. It ranges from 6–14 feet (1.8–4.3 m) in length and operates with either a saw or lopperlike attachment at the end. The fruit picker form of a pole pruner comes with a soft basket to catch the fruit before it hits the ground or your head. Pole pruners come with either hardwood handles or fiberglass extension poles. Saw or lopper materials should be made from top-quality steel.
Elegant Japanese saws have an curved and angled blade that cuts with a pulling motion. They are suitable for light pruning jobs. A tempered steel blade and polished hardwood handle are the mark of a high-quality saw.
Used to prepare vegetable or flower beds, the garden rake texturizes and smoothes out the soil with its strong tines. The best rakes have heads forged from a single piece of carbon steel. The average width is 15 inches (38 cm), but models range up to 24 inches (60 cm).
Adjustable Rakes: Adjustable leaf and lawn rakes allow you to spread or narrow the tines according to the space you’re working. This versatile instrument—with a spread of 7–22 inches (18–56 cm) covers all parts of the garden, from vegetable beds to container plantings. Construction should be of steel and aluminum.
Bowhead Rakes: The tines on the bowhead are slightly bent and the head is connected to the handle by two steel bows that give the rake a springy feel. This helps it function as a shock absorber as you winnow out rock and debris from the soil, making it an especially popular choice for prepping vegetable gardens.
Flathead Rakes: The flathead rake has short straight tines perfect for mashing dirt clods and a flat flip side that smoothes the soil back. It’s better suited to less rocky soils and works the dirt into a very fine texture.
Rock Rakes: This rake features a 6-inch (15-cm) scooped basket designed to remove rocks from the top 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of tilled soil. When the stones have been scooped up, they can be tossed into a wheelbarrow and hauled away. Tines of hardened steel and a high-quality hardwood handle are best.
A respirator is a must for application of fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and other garden chemicals [see Applying Garden Chemicals]. A rubber-faced respirator with a good filter will eliminate any chance of breathing in dust. Simpler protection comes in the form of foam or paper dust masks, which are adequate when dealing with sawdust, dirt, or pollen. Double-stage respirators with two filters mounted in-line are the ultimate in respirator protection.
These two tools are used to remove rocks, twigs, leaves, and other debris from garden soil to leave it smoother for planting. Also use them to sieve compost, returning coarse materials to the compost pile or discarding them with other yard waste. Riddles are set in a hoop made of steel, wood, or plastic, and come with interchangeable screens that feature a range of openings. A sieve or sifting screen has one size and is framed by the same choice of materials as the riddle.
A rose by any other name…is a watering head at the end of the spout on a watering can. Roses are either round or oval. Oval roses deliver a stronger stream of water if desired; round roses produce a lighter shower. Some roses are rubber backed, allowing them to be switched to cans with different-size spouts; others have steel, plastic, or brass bodies. Highest-quality rose faces are made of brass. Protect iron roses from rust between use by turning the watering can upside down so that no water is trapped in the rose.
A major power tool that breaks up compacted topsoil for further amendment, cultivation and planting, the rotary tiller features rear- or front-mounted hardened steel tillers, heavy-gauge steel construction, and high-traction wheels. Home garden rototillers generally have between 1 HP for a very small model up to 10 HP for larger machines, with blades ranging from 6–16 inches (15–40 cm) wide.
[see also Tillers, Hand in this list]
If your upper body is aching, but you need to help circulate air, water, and nutrients in your garden soil, aerator sandals can get the job done nearly as well as a garden fork or cultivator. They have 2-inch (5-cm) metal spikes encased in plastic soles—just strap them on over your shoes and take a calorie-burning stroll.
If a hay-stuffed, badly dressed, goofy-looking scarecrow doesn’t keep the crows out of the corn, maybe it’s because they’re modern crows. Today’s scarecrow often is made of chrome-plated or mirrored bits of metal suspended from a metal pole, like a mobile or whirligig. The theory is that the sudden flashes of light and movement will scare birds off.
Though they somewhat resemble trowels, scoops are not a digging tool but instead are used to scoop up seed, fertilizer, or soil for potting and planting jobs. Some scoop/trowel hybrids can be found on the market; they are recognizable by their serrated edges and a pointed blade that makes them appropriate for light digging. Construction should be of high-quality steel or aluminum.
A traditional and efficient tool, the scythe can clear out a good-sized patch of overgrown grass or weed quickly. The razor-sharp forged steel blade works with a rotating motion that is very safe for the gardener. The blade is set at a right angle to the handle, reducing the possibility of injury. Two handles are attached to the hardwood or alloy metal pole. Folding models are also available.
Seedlings can be cultivated in as simple a medium as eggshells (the calcium aids growth) or as high tech a system as a “biodome” mini-greenhouse. Most gardeners use wooden or plastic flats that, coupled with peat or plastic pots, are the easiest way to store and raise seedlings. The object of these simple devices is to keep tender seedlings moist and temperature controlled in preparation for the move into the garden.
Single-row seeders should suffice for most expansive vegetable gardens, although there are 4-row versions to serve large plantings. A good seeder comes with a variety of seed plates that allow for the release of different-size seeds. The seeder works by plowing a trench, dropping the seed, and covering it up. Choose a model that will disperse pure seed without requiring you to mix it with a dispensing agent.
Keep the blades of your hoes, pruners, shears, edgers, and other bladed tools that require a clean, sharp edge in top shape with a sharpener. Sharpeners come flat or triangular in shape, in fine, heavy, or coarse textures. Materials are ceramic, diamond grit, or steel. Finally, the sharpener itself should be kept clean.
Whether called garden, flower, or utility shears, a good pair crafted out of high carbon steel is indispensable. Just a few uses include trimming foliage, cutting twine or netting, cutting and snipping herbs.
These most fundamental and versatile of gardening tools comes in an array of sizes, shapes, and lengths. Because the tool’s main purpose is to assist with the heavy task of removing and transporting soil, quality construction is essential.
Round-Point Shovels: For moving soil, digging, carrying a load of manure, or for a number of other garden tasks, the round-point shovel is the standard. The best constructed shovels should have heads forged out of high-carbon tempered steel. Handles of ash or solid-core fiberglass are the most durable. Longer-handled models will forestall the potential for back strain.
Scoop or Snow Shovels: The scoop shovel has a wide, flared head and is constructed out of lightweight steel, aluminum, or plastic. Despite the size of the scoop, it is meant to be used for light loads of grain, mulch, debris, or snow. Plastic scoops are not a bad choice because they are impervious to water damage, but durable steel models are available in a weather-resistant epoxy-coated finishes.
Square-Point Shovels: Primarily for loading or lifting materials, the square point has a flat bottom and an unsharpened blade. It is very popular for mixing concrete and handling other semisolid elements. Lengths vary, and grips come in YD- or T-shaped versions; a solid forged steel head handles heavy loads.
Trenching Shovels: The trenching shovel, with its long head and pointed edges, is the best tool for digging drainage and irrigation channels. It comes in a variety of head widths, from 2–10 inches (5–25 cm), depending on the gardener’s need. Look for a tempered-steel head and high-quality hardwood handle.
A rugged but compact shredder/chipper in the backyard will turn lawn debris, leaves and plant stems into mulch and compost material very quickly. Threshing flails within the heavy-duty steel chamber reduce brush and leaf matter to a fine texture, hastening the composting process. Chipping knives turn saplings and branches into useful mulch. Features to look for are a good-sized hopper, electric start, and a tow hookup for hauling this heavy machine to various parts of the garden.
This classic tool with its curved, half-moon blade, is a one-handed clearing miracle ideal for cutting small patches of weed in out-of-the-way places. The carbon steel blade is razor sharp and double edged, which makes it handy for right or left handers. A hardwood handle, such as hickory, is most desirable.
This plastic tray filled with plant seedlings is divided into six units. The squares are larger than those that come in a tray full of multiple cell-packs, but the principle is the same. When the plants have reached seedling status, just pop them out of the tray, soil and all, and transplant them into the garden [see Plants in 6-Packs]
Soil test kits come in handy to test the chemical content of the soil and determine its pH level. Special paper strips with color-change indicators are common elements of many testers. More sophisticated kits are available with test tubes, droppers, and chemicals that reveal what percentages of the three major nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—are present or lacking in your soil.
A spade has a squatter, stronger appearance than the shovel, and is an essential digging tool. Its main purpose is to break up and prep mounds of virgin soil in preparation for planting. The strong, flat metal blade can pulverize dirt clods, pound stakes, and cut straight lines in the soil. A good spade head should be constructed of carbon or stainless steel. Make sure it has a very strong, shock-absorbing wood handle.
Border Spades: A smaller version of the tough English garden spade, the border spade is well-suited for work in tight areas around vegetable beds, for prepping small garden areas, and digging up bulbs. It should feature solid forged or carbon steel construction. A weatherproof ash handle with a YD-grip makes this a tool for the ages.
English Garden Spades: A big, top-quality spade, this well-balanced 5-pound (2.2 kg) tool is constructed out of solid forged steel and ash and has a YD grip. It can be used to pry up stones and digs well in dense soil. A relatively tall spade, it’s a good fit for the lanky gardener. The edges should be kept sharp.
Section Spades, Tapered: A tall spade with a narrow blade that is well-suited for laboring in wet soil, this style originated in Ireland. The long handle and narrow steel head—4-1/2 x 13 inches (11.5 x 33 cm)— lends the gardener additional leverage when working with a heavy load of soil. You’ll want varnished and weather-proof ash handles to resist the less-than-ideal conditions this tool addresses.
Rootball Spades: This specialty spade for transplanting large plantings such as trees or shrubs features a long, round, and wide—6-1/4 x 14 inches (16 x 36 cm)—head and flares a bit for deep digging. A forged steel head and ash handle is topped by a YD-grip on the best models.
Used to apply liquid fertilizers, pesticides, or fungicides, sprayers allow the gardener to squarely aim the liquid directly at the plant. Models come with different mechanisms, including slide, compressed air, or pump sprayers. Capacity ranges from 1/2–15 gallons (1.9–57 l). For the home gardener, a 1/2 to 1-1/2-gallon (1.9–5.7-l) sprayer is most sufficient. Sprayers come in plastic, stainless-steel, or galvanized-steel containers.
A portable spreader, as opposed to a wheeled mechanical one, is all most home gardeners need to distribute seed and fertilizer uniformly over the garden bed. This simple device works by a hand crank attached to a small bag or scatter box that you hold; just load it up and crank away.
There are a vast array of sprinklers on the market that variously oscillate, impulse, spin, rotate, or whirl—some even are motionless except for the water they emit—and can be attached to timers or mounted on mini-tractors. Basically, a good sprinkler should be heavy and secure enough to withstand the constant pressure of water. Brass or stainless-steel sprinkler heads are the most durable. Couplings should attach securely and easily to your hose. Remember that many varieties of vegetable plants do best when watered at their base rather than by overhead water sprays.
The support crew of the garden, stakes provide support for vegetable plants from the seedling stage through maturity. They are particularly useful for climbing varieties such as beans and peas, and ranging varieties such as berries. Stakes are helpful for training plants in a certain direction or keeping them upright in wind and rain. Depending on the construction material—bamboo, metal, plastic, or wood—they are either stuck or screwed into the ground.
You promised yourself you were only going to check on the zucchini and pinch prune the tomatoes, but quickly lost track of time. A few hours later, the sun sparkles off the beautiful bronze of the sundial, reminding you that you’re late for an appointment. Even if you can’t make heads nor tails of sundial readings, a sundial, in many styles and forms, is a beautiful and historic accent for the garden.
Twine, stretchy-plastic tape, floral tape, and vine nails are the unheralded heroes of the garden. They hold up tender young plants, keep mature specimens from falling over in the wind and rain, train plants to grow in a desired direction, and keep fruits from direct contact with the soil. Supports come in many different forms and are made from rope, metal, bamboo, plastic, or wood.
A workbench for the gardener, a potting table traditionally is constructed of weather-resistant woods such as redwood or cedar. Used primarily for propagation and storage, a potting bench offers a steady work surface for potting plants, setting seedlings, mixing materials, and making cuttings. A good potting table should have decent storage for tools and equipment and ample workspace. Folding models are available if space is at a premium.
Made from burlap, long-lasting canvas, or shorter-lived polyester mesh and polyethylene, tarps are as essential for piling and hauling clippings, cuttings, and weeds as wheelbarrows are for transporting heavy objects. Some tarps have a grommets or a built-in drawstring, which makes them extra secure and useful for gathering fruits and vegetables.
This useful tool helps you determine whether you need to turn or water a compost pile, based on the temperature reached by its internal heat of decomposition. The higher the temperature, the quicker organic material decomposes and the more stray weed seeds are killed. A compost thermometer registers 0–220°F (-18–105°C), with an ideal “compost-cooking range” of 95–131°F (35–55°C). The 20-inch (50-cm) temperature probe is constructed of stainless steel.
Plant ties secure branches or stems around stakes and trellises. The best choices are stretchy plastic plant “tape,” foam-covered wire tires, which cushion and protect the plant; twine, which is sturdy and also biodegrades; and plant clips, which act like clothespins, for easy use and removal.
This short-handled but strong 4-tined tool is designed to till and cultivate small areas of a vegetable or flower bed. The forged steel head works to loosen up the soil and also is useful for removing small rocks and roots. The standard size is 17-inches (43-cm) long with 5-1/2-inch (14-cm) tines.
[see also Rototillers and Tillers in this list]
Automatic water timers can be set to cycle for dousing once a day, once a week, three times a day, or whatever your garden needs. Best of all, they supplant our own, sometimes unreliable, personal clocks, and just get the job done. Electronic timers, set to a start and duration time, are battery operated and hook on to the garden faucet. Non-electric timers are powered by the flow of the water and can be set to water once a day for a choice of length.
Spare the tool shed or garage of clutter with a tool rack that allows you to hang shovels, hoes, rakes, loppers, and hats. Racks are made out of strong tubular steel, with a polyester or chrome finish. They also come in a more traditional pegged hardwood form.
Rather than dragging around half the contents of your tool shed on your person, consider a garden tote. A good tote has a hard, flat bottom to keep items in place and offers lots of large side pockets. Best construction is of durable cotton canvas with a leather-reinforced handle.
Gophers, squirrels, raccoons, and opossums are just a few of the garden pests who can maim your fragile plants. To humanely trap these small creatures, a rust-resistant galvanized metal and wire mesh cage is best. No strong springs can hurt the animal or you. Bait it, trap your prey, and transport it to a shelter or natural woodland area. A variety of sizes exist to accommodate the size of your prey.
Mechanical bug traps prevent the use of chemical insecticides. One of the most popular traps is the lanternlike “bug zapper,” which, when baited, attracts flies or wasps and kills them with electric current. At night, a light attracts even more specimens. Non-toxic, yellow panel sticky traps with pheromone attractants are good choices for controlling whiteflies or other target pests. Beetle and slug traps are also widely available.
If your potting bench is otherwise known as the breakfast nook or dining room table, a potting tray can help you plant your seeds and get a meal on the table. These sturdy polypropylene units hold small pots, trowels, and seeds, and have a raised back so that additional little buckets can be snapped on to hold extra items. Their compact dimensions—22 x 24 x 7-1/2inches (56 x 60 x 19 cm)—allow for easy cleanup and storage.
A small shovel for planting, weeding, mixing, and digging tasks, most trowels have round heads but some are pointed. Cheap trowels are constructed of stamped metal and are not well attached to their handles. As this tool will be with you for a long time, it’s best to get one of forged carbon or stainless steel. The blade should be solidly riveted to a comfortable grip of high-quality polished hardwood. The standard trowel size is 12-1/2 inches (32-cm) long.
American Trowels: The “monster trucks” of trowels for major digging and transplant chores have slightly pointed blades especially suitable for rocky soils. A solid socket should attach the carbon steel head to a hardwood handle. It weighs in at 1 pound (0.5 kg) and is 14-inches (35-cm) long. Use it for heavy chores that require moving lots of soil, and for larger plants.
Long-Handled Trowels: A good choice for hard to reach spaces in the vegetable garden, the long, narrow blade of this trowel makes it easy for the kneeling gardener to reach the back of a bed. Epoxy-covered carbon steel models cut through the soil with less effort.
Transplanting Trowels: This specialty planting/digging trowel has a long broad blade that digs deep into the soil. Excavate transplant holes and use it to blend potting mix with native soil. A rubber handle is a good grip choice and an epoxy-coated carbon steel blade makes this a tool that will last for years.